Generations of families connect through their cherished traditions-the events that we and our grandsons can both count on. Yet many families lack that sort of bond that lasts from year to year. Here’s how to fill your family gatherings with treasured memories that will last through time.

Steps

Begin by making a list of the things that are important to your family.
This list may include special dates, activities or places. For Example, Papa loves to have a backyard shrimp boil or the boys love to make a day of shooting off fireworks on the 4th of July. Once you have your list, move on to step two.

Review your lists and look at the ways that you can make those events special.
As our family grew and our kids started to have kids of their own, we held on and promoted the events that were special to us. For example, everyone can gather at G-ma’s house on the first Saturday of every December to make their favorite Christmas candies and cookies. Knowing when the next big event is, 365 days in advance, leaves little excuse for missing it.

Build upon those traditions to make them magical.
Traditions are, by definition, a meaningful custom passed down through a family or group. To make yours go from a mandatory get together to an anxiously anticipated gathering, enhance the event by adding a pre-event meal or a post-event charitable act. Once a small affair starts to snowball, consider turning it into an event allowing each one to find something that makes it special to them.

Remember the event from year to year by designating a record keeper.

The family record keeper can create a log and picture book. He or she would be in charge of taking photos or delegating the duties. To make the years even more memorable, consider noting emotions and experiences of the day.

What do you know about Cypress wood?      We just got back from a wonderful trip along the southern coastline of Louisiana and Mississippi, and were surprised to learn that Cypress wood, grown naturally in the swamplands along the southern coast of the United States, is one of the best woods for outdoor furniture.   Who knew?

Cypress trees have natural compounds in the wood that act as a preservative against the damages of insects, fungus and weather aging. The natural preservatives make cypress ideal for outdoor furniture as it does not need to be heavily treated with chemicals in order to hold up.

Cypress wood turns from pale blonde to a delicate silver grey as it ages naturally. Whether you want to maintain the look of new wood or allow your cypress furniture to take on the natural look of aging, a preserving treatment will keep the wood strong and free of penetrating moisture for many years. 

It has a fine grain character that shows off the beauty of wood while retaining a smooth texture unlike the grain of oak.  Since the wood lacks sap and bleeding, it is able to absorb paints, sealers, stains and protectants very well, making it a fun wood to decorate. In its natural state, Cypress is an amber-honey shade. However, it will develop a silvery hue if left outdoors for a period of time without wood finish. Cypress is tough, scarcely knotted and lightweight.

For all of these reasons, you should consider Cypress Wood for your outdoor furniture needs.  I know we will!

Landscape lighting can serve a variety of purposes.  Some of the most obvious are:  safety, security, tasking, and aesthetics.

Landscape lighting systems

There are basically three types of landscape lighting systems:

• low-voltage
• high-voltage
• solar

Low-voltage lights are wired to a transformer connected to a home’s electrical circuit.  The advantages of a low-voltage landscape lighting system are that it uses only 12 volts, easy to install, and its lightweight wiring requires smaller ground trenches.

High-voltage landscape lighting systems require a separate electrical circuit and installation requires a licensed electrician.  They use more power, but they can also handle more fixtures.

Solar landscape lighting systems don’t require any wiring at all.  They’re environmentally friendly and easy to move.

Safety

Lighting can be used to help us move about the property without tripping on steps, stepping stones, tree roots and other obstacles found in pathways and stairs around the home.  The most common safety lighting is step lighting and path lighting.  Your deck lighting can be a great tool for highlighting and spotlighting any changes in elevations, drop-offs, or deck-edges, which can create not only a dramatic effect, but a safer deck, as well.  You can conceal the light cords beneath railings, beneath benches, or on vertical posts.

Security

Lighting can be used to discourage unwanted intruders by removing hiding places.  While bright spotlights can be used for this purpose, they are not necessary.  The same level of security is possible with carefully placed low level lighting with a much more pleasing result for the homeowners and their neighbors.

Tasking

Lighting used to accomplish an activity is task lighting.  It might be relatively high levels of light for reading or cleaning up, or low levels for such activities such as conversing or listening to music.  Actually, there are many types of fixtures and techniques that are used for task lighting.  Controlling the amount, timing, and direction of the light is also an important aspect in task lighting design.

Aesthetics

Lighting installed to increase the enjoyment and beauty of the landscape is a common use for low voltage lighting.  Whether it is mature trees, flower beds, stone walls, a pond, or any other landscape feature, lighting can extend the time to enjoy and appreciate the beauty of your lawn and garden.  The full range of techniques can be used to create natural and even unnatural effects.  The landscape lighting plan will frequently incorporate two or more of these choices to provide a comprehensive lighting plan that will use just the right amount of light to do the job.

Fountain / waterfall / underwater lighting

If you have a fountain or water garden on your patio or elsewhere in your garden, you want to be sure it is not just  an item of beauty in the daytime.  There are many great types of patio lighting that will make your fountain or pond even more beautiful at night.  You can use underwater lights that really give an added appeal to your water display.  Consider colored lights for added interest.  It is also possible to create a mirrored effect on the surface of the water by lighting the areas adjacent to the reflecting surface of the water.

Shadowing

Use this technique to highlight any interesting shapes that you may have in your garden including branch structure, sculptures, etc.  Place your light fixture in front of the item or plant that you wish to shadow, and aim it so that the item will cast it’s shadow on a surface like a wall, etc. The closer the light is to the item you want to shadow, the larger the shadow will be.

Silhouetting

Silhouetting is a type of patio lighting that really highlights the shape of an object.  To create a silhouette effect, place a light behind the subject, and shine it up against a vertical surface, such as the wall of your home.

Moon Lighting

Place light fixtures up into a tree and shine them downward.  The light will be filtered through the branches of the trees, creating an effect like the moon shining down.

These are just a few types of landscape lighting that you may want to consider.  In choosing what is right for you, consider what you would like to accomplish with your lighting, explore the possibilities, and have fun creating a beautiful display.

Get your pond ready for spring.

It’s 36 degrees outside, I’m sitting by the fire watching “March Madness” games, and my thoughts start to wonder to the goldfish pond in the backyard.  As many of you,I am thinking it is time to get my pond “up & running”. But, are the words “quick” & “easy” coming to mind?  They will be, once you’ve followed these simple directions.  You too can have a sparkling, clear pond, waterfall or fountain in a couple of hours.

1.  Remove the Netting

-if you covered your pond with netting last fall, you’ll need to take it off, rinse, dry & put away for next fall. (However, if you live in an area with lots of “nesting ducks”, you may want to re-cover your pond until the ducklings have hatched and gone to the larger ponds. This is usually late April)

2.  Remove the Muck

-that has accumulated at the bottom of your pond.  If you haven’t covered with netting, you will also have some decaying leaves that must be removed.  For years, the only way to accomplish this was to drain the pond, remove the fish, rinse out the rocks & gently clean the  sides of the pond with a soft cloth (towel), being careful not to scrape away the healthy algae that has attached to the sides of your pond, and then refill with fresh water.  This process still works, but in the past few years some great pond vacs have been introduced that greatly lessen your work time & is much less stressful to your fish and plants.  These range from a vacume system that attaches to your garden hose and costs about $100, to a vacume system that will actually filter your pond water, collecting debris and then cycling your pond water back into the pond.  These run about $350.  With this system you will want to do about a 25% water change.

3.  Start the Pump

-if you remove your pump, biofilter or aquafalls for the winter, you will need to keep them wet.  They can actually be stored in the bottom of your pond.  (Underwater UV light bulbs are only good for 12 months, so now is a good time to replace these.)  Carefully check all parts, clean or replace any filters or pads as needed.  Add dechlorinator if needed.  You will want to let the pump run for about 24 hours before checking pH levels. They should be between 6.8 and 8.2, with the ideal being 7.2.  You can adjust with pH adjustor if necessary.  There is no need to feed the fish, or add any bacteria or other water treatments until the water temperature reaches 55 degrees.

Did I say quick & easy? 1…2…3…done.

Give us a call with any questions or comments.

What does fertilizer do?

Fertilizing is the most important thing you do for your lawn.  It encourages growth and helps the lawn deal with stresses such as disease, drought and high traffic.  A  healthy lawn keeps out weeds and uses less water.  Using a four step fertilization program, applied approximately 6-8 weeks apart,  is the best way to a healthy thick lawn.

Understanding Fertilizer Labels

Don’t be confused by the label on your fertilizer bag. Fertilizers are usually identified with three numbers: nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potassium (K).  The three numbers on the front of the bag are the percentages of these three nutrients.  Nitrogen gives the deep green color and promotes growth.  Phosphorus promotes root development.  Potassium aids disease & drought resistance.  These three numbers will never equal 100%.  The remainder of the contents is a mixture of one or more secondary nutrients, trace elements, and some type of filler material.

Early Spring (Feb-Apr)

Application of a pre-emergent fertilizer will prevent the crabgrass from germinating.  In warmer climates, you may wish to apply a second time about 4 weeks apart. The first application should take place about the time of the first mowing.  A pre-emergent fertilizer that is high in nitrogen will give your lawn a fast greenup but will also prevent grass seed from germination, so take that into consideration.

Late Spring (Apr-Jun)

Again, the best defense against weeds is a dense, healthy lawn, but for those weeds that do pop up, you’ll want to use a fertilizer with weed control and root builder.  Apply on a warm day, but not too hot, after rainfall or watering ,so that the particles can stick to the weeds leaves.  It should be at least two days after your last mowing.  Weed control is most effective when weeds are young and actively growing.  Wait at least two days before mowing again so your yard can benefit fully from the application.

Summer (Jun-Aug)

A fertilizer that is higher in potassium will feed and strengthen against heat & drought.  You will also want something that protects against bugs.  Insect control can be applied anytime you see insect damage or notice the insects.  A common insect that can cause a lot of damage is the white grub.  Grub control can be applied from early May through mid August and will give you season long control.

Winterizer (Sep-Nov)

Application of a winterizer, high in phosphorous, will strengthen the roots for a stronger, healthier, greener lawn next spring.  Use of a weed & feed will give you a jump on next year’s weeds.

Fertilizer Application

The usual rule is to apply about four pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. per year.  Fertilizer should be applied four or more times per growing season at about six or eight week intervals.  Calibrating your fertilizer spreader will insure that you are applying the proper amount.  Read and follow the directions on the bag.

Happy Spring, and have a wonderful Summer!

As winter storms dumped snow on much of the US this week, and I made the frantic rush to the grocery store to stock up on supplies, my thoughts turned toward the wildlife around us.  I love to attract wild birds with my backyard bird feeders during the warm summer months, but in the winter,  as I am bundled up warm and cozy indoors by the fire, I tend to neglect that duty .  I found the following article online at Wild Birds Unlimited and, rather than  try to rewrite something that was wonderfully written already, have copied here for you.  It discusses the 3 basics: Food, Water & Shelter.  I hope you find the following information as useful as I have.

Winter Bird Feeding

As winter approaches, many birds change some of their eating habits. Birds that usually eat insects may start to eat berries to supplement their diets. Birds will start to look for reliable sources of food for wintertime survival. And, in the fall, many birds began forming flocks. Flocks of birds are better able to find food and protect themselves from predators.

The life of a bird in the winter may not be as stress-free as many people think.

In much of North America, winter can be a difficult time for birds. The days are short, and nights are often cold and long. The natural food supply has been consumed or is hidden by snow. Most insects are dead or dormant. Water can be hard to find, and food needed to provide the energy to keep birds warm might be scarce. Finding shelter may not be easy. If there are limited natural evergreens or shelter, birds may seek manmade houses or habitats that can provide refuge from the winds, rains, ice or snow of winter.

Birds are warm-blooded. In general, this means that they maintain their body temperature within a certain range even when the temperature around them changes. The maintenance of body temperature within a normal range depends on the amount of heat the bird produces.

On cold, wintry days, most birds fluff up their feathers, creating air pockets, which help keep the birds warm. The more air spaces, the better the insulation. Some birds perch on one leg, drawing the other leg to the breast for warmth.

To keep up their high metabolic rate, most backyard birds eat rich, energy foods such as seeds, insects and suet. There are some times, however, when birds are not prepared to deal with sudden drops in temperature or sudden winter storms. At times like these, it is especially helpful to have feeders full so that birds can find food easily.

Providing Food for Birds in the Winter

As winter approaches, you may need to change some of the foods you offer to birds. Providing high calorie and high fat foods can be important to the birds. The birds visiting winter feeders may be arriving in flocks or may come to the feeders as individuals, so you will need to provide different options for the birds.

Feeders should be located out of the wind. The east or southeast side of a house or near a row of trees is ideal. It is best to have a perching spot such as a bush or tree for the birds to use to survey the feeding area and provide sufficient cover for safe refuge from predators and shelter from the wind and weather. The feeders should be positioned near cover but in the open to allow birds to watch for danger. For ground feeding, an area near cover with a clear view of the surroundings is desirable.

Placing seed in a ground feeder entices birds such as sparrows, juncos, Mourning Doves, quail, pheasants, towhees and Brown Thrashers. Even the Red-bellied Woodpecker, which is thought of as a tree dweller, does some foraging on the ground. Platform and hopper feeders are especially good for attracting cardinals, wrens, chickadees, titmice, jays, and grosbeaks. Hanging feeders, because they blow in the wind, are generally used by those species that are able to hang on while feeding such as chickadees, titmice, nuthatches and finches.

Oil sunflower is a great overall seed to offer in the winter. It has a high calorie/ounce ratio due to its high fat and protein content and its relatively thin shell. Oil sunflower has twice the calories per pound than striped sunflower and its smaller shells make less mess when discarded by the birds.

Suet is a great food to offer many of the birds that will visit backyards in the winter. Suet is a high energy, pure fat substance which is invaluable in winter when insects are harder to find and birds need many more calories to keep their bodies warm.

Suet can be fed in a variety of feeders ranging from a suet cage to a wood and cage feeder offering protection from the weather elements and designed to require the birds to hang upside down.

Peanuts are another great food to offer birds in the wintertime. Peanuts have high protein and fat levels and are often an ingredient in suet products. Offering peanuts in a peanut feeder can provide a good source of protein for birds.

Providing Water for Birds

Birds do need a source for water in the winter. You can help birds find water by providing an open source of water for the birds. Bird baths can provide a water source and should be heated to help prevent the whole bath from freezing. In areas where the weather can turn cold and possibly freeze the water in bird baths, a heater or heated birdbath can keep an area open in your bird bath.

It is always a good idea to cover ceramic bird baths to keep the water out in the winter. You can put out a plastic dish with an added heater or a bird bath with a built-in heater.

Some products can be kept out all winter, if the proper bird bath de-icers are used. Check with your Wild Birds Unlimited sales associate or the manufacturer about the best kind of heaters to use in bird baths and ponds.

Providing Cover for Birds

Roosting boxes or natural plant covers can also aid birds seeking protection from cold weather. Shelter is also needed for protection against natural predators, such as birds of prey. Cats are unnatural predators and birds also need shelter to escape from them. Be sure to clean out old nests from houses to help reduce the possibility of parasitic bugs surviving the winter. It also allows birds the opportunity to roost in a clean house.

Winter can be a great time to feed and enjoy the birds!

For moist, succulent turkey, professional chefs & home cooks alike rely on the old-fashioned technique of brining.  Brining helps keep the meat juicy without giving it a salty taste – you’ll never have to worry about serving a dried-out holiday turkey again.

Combined with water, the mix draws moisture and flavor into the meat, keeping it tender & succulent as it cooks.  It is also great with chicken or pork.

I recently tried the “Apple & Spices Turkey Brine” from Williams Sonoma, and loved it.  Brining the turkey will definitely become a traditional part of my family’s Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners.  Just as advertised, the turkey was so moist and flavorful, and the process was very easy.  The recipe I used for the smoker was the Cider-Brined Turkey.  I dissolved the salt mixture in 1/2 gallon of water over medium heat, removed from the heat, mixed in 1/2 gallon cold water and a 1/2 gallon of apple cider. Once the solution was cooled to room temperature, I rinsed and patted dry the completely thawed turkey, placed a turkey baking bag into a roasting pan, placed the turkey in the bag, poured the solution over the turkey, and tied the bag closed securely.  The turkey is to brine for 24 to 72 hours, turning once or twice daily.  Once ready to smoke, prepare your smoker, remove turkey from the brining solution, rinse well, pat dry, and smoke til done.  This was really delicious!

If you would like to prepare your own brining recipe, I have found one from Martha Stewart Recipes that is very good. (although I did not use all 3 different ciders.) The recipe is for baking, but works even better on the smoker.

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas.  Those houses completely outlined in lights are amazing to look at!  But let’s face it, that’s just not an option for everyone.  Whether it’s the expense, lack of agility to leap tall buildings, or whatever, you can still have a beautifully festive home for the holidays.

DECORATE YOUR FRONT DOOR

It’s inexpensive, takes just a few minutes, and requires no special tools or equipment.  There is nothing more welcoming and inviting than a lighted front door.  Hang some garland around the opening, toss in some lights, and you’ve got a beautifully festive home for passersby, the neighbors to enjoy, or to welcome holiday visitors.

LIVE GARLAND

Live garland is readily available, inexpensive, disposable, and smells wonderful.  I have found it around town for about $8.00 for a 15 ft. garland.  You can hang it from a couple of sturdy nails at the top corners of your door frame.  I use two and overlap at the top.  The small white lights are about $3.00 for a 100 light string.  Three strings are plenty.  And you can add from there if you like.  Things like bows, berries, ornaments, let your creativity run wild.

PRE-LIT ARTIFICIAL GARLAND

Pre-lit artificial garland is more expensive, but reusable.  You can pick it up at several places and runs around $59.00 to $79.00 for a nice, full 9 ft piece.  Measure the door frame to see how many feet you will need.  Two or three will do it.

Start with the front door and see where your imagination takes you.  I LOVE the way it makes my home look.  And it’s a HUGE reward for a small amount of time and money.  Try it, and let me know what you think.  Merry Christmas!

Jingle Bells – Ho, Ho, Ho, – and Deck The Halls – Oh, what fun it is … to decorate for Christmas.  Everything is beautiful and festive as you prepare for the Big Day!  But I can just about bet your family is a lot like ours.  We love the beauty and excitement of the holiday season, but … who wants to run outside every evening, two times; once to plug in those lovely Christmas lights, and once again, after the “children are nestled all snug in their beds” to unplug those blasted lights?  And, even worse, who hasn’t felt the horrible guilt of wasting energy because you forgot and left those lights on all night?

The holidays come with many unavoidable stresses, but maintaining your outdoor Christmas lights shouldn’t be one of them.  Plug in an automatic timer and let the lights turn themselves on and off.  What a welcome sight to pull into your driveway at the end of a long day of work (or shopping) to a beautifully lit home.  The timer can be set to turn on and off at whatever time you select.  Most people choose to turn on at dusk and off between 11:00pm and midnight. An automatic timer will save on energy by turning on at a designated time, yet stay on late enough for everyone who drives by to enjoy.  Try it, and let us know what you think.

Wishing you and yours a very Merry Christmas and Blessed New Year!

INITIAL SETUP OF YOUR NEW CHIMINEA

INSULATE

This is done so that the fire is not directly against the clay.  Add sand or pea gravel to the bowl until it is 3″ – 4″ below the lip of the opening.

GRATE

Place 2 bricks on their side about 6″ apart.  This will serve as a grate to stack your wood, and allow air to circulate below your fire.

SEASON

Start with a few small fires (5-10) to “season” your chiminea, allowing your fire burn out naturally.  You can then increase the size of your fires.  However, if the fire is coming out of the top of the neck, your fire is too big.  Chiminea fires are not meant as a primary heat source.

WOODS

A good size for an average sized chiminea is 4″ in ” in length.  There are several types of wood that are good to use.  Try a few of the following and select your favorite.

Red Cedar – has a nice aroma.

Mesquite – is great for cooking.

Scrap Lumber – is frequently used, but burns fast and hot.

Pinion Pine – has a very nice smell, keeps mosquitoes away and is probably the most easily accessible.

Applewood – has a wonderful aroma.

Hickory – is great for cooking.

Alligator Juniper – is very aromatic.

Eco Logs – are made from compressed sawdust and burn slow.

WEATHERPROOFING

Although not necessary with all styles, it is a good idea to seal your chiminea.  Future floor wax or Butchers wax are 2 brands that work well.  Simply rub over the outside with a cloth.  This helps to seal the pores & hairline cracks.  Keeping your chiminea covered when not in use will also extend the life of your “firepot”.

STORAGE

It is a good idea to store your clay chiminea indoors when temperatures dip below freezing.  Remove the sand before moving.  Do not store on it’s stand.  If storing outside, set on a pallet allowing air to circulate underneath.